Yesterday (11/5/09), Lorna Gail and I went to Chichen Itza, the eighth wonder of the world, so I could take pictures for the electronic book I am hoping to put online next month. The story takes place in Merida and Chichen.
I hadn’t been out there for years. On the new highways, it took two quick hours from Merida. We exited right into Piste and the site. We parked at the south end of the site rather than the general entrance. The parking there belongs to the Mayaland Hotel, so they charged us 100p which got refunded after we ate a late breakfast there.
We entered the site just at opening, around 8:30 AM. After so many years, it took my breath away and I remembered that going there 25 years ago had caused the light bulb to go on in my head about moving to Yucatan. Back then, much of the site was unrestored, and you could climb on all the structures. There was a rocky dirt path up the hill from the entry, which was a little booth, and only rough, uneven paths among the structures.
Today, the whole place has a well-kept lawn and lovely trees and flowers. There are excellent walkways and it’s accessible to the handicapped – I saw several people in wheelchairs.
I have to say that although the place is incredible, it didn’t do to me what it did when it was unkempt and wild. It has been beaten into submission. But that’s a good thing. There are understated barriers in front of all the structures so people won’t go on them, which will help preserve them. And the walkways do make it more pleasant. And actually, now it is probably more like it was originally than it was 25 years ago, because in its heyday (600 AD – 1530, during the Conquest) it was a thriving, paved, well-kept city.
People like me just like to romanticize the ruins.
Workers at the Pyramid of Kukulcan are excavating square holes about five meters deep and eight meters square, displaying more structural stones. One of them told me that the pyramid goes down about four meters further than you can see at present, because the base has been covered with dirt. I don’t know whether they plan to dig out the whole thing or just use the holes to display the additional part of the building.
Access was blocked to the Temple of the Warriors which means you can’t see the Chac Mool, because he’s set too far back on the top. (If you go about 60 yards away, you can see him.) They also call this the Temple of a Thousand Pillars and its beginning to look like it might have that many. They have multiplied.
I was surprised to see that vendors are in the site. They line the pathway to the main cenote and whisper, “good price,” or “real silver.” (It isn’t.) I was charmed by a “diamond”-studded “silver” snake bracelet with red gemstone eyes that wound around your arm. The vendor offered to trade it to me for my five-year-old Aasic athletic shoes and I was tempted, but I needed the shoes.
After walking around the central part of the site and the cenote, we walked back out the south gate for breakfast at the Mayaland. It was excellent and the place was beautiful. A lone peacock joined us at the table.
A terrific excursion. And it’s great to have my INAPAM card, issued to people over 60 who live here, because it allows free admission to ruins and museums.











Great!
There were some words I didn’t understand like: the Chac Mool (Main God?), cenote, INAPAM (how does that translate?). Well, really it’s cenote that I could not make out from by the rest of the words.
I’ve wanted to go Chichen Itsa since I was staying in Campeche in 1965 with Ari’s father. He and the other man we were traveling with took off early in the morning without me or Jansi – or Reni. A guy’s day. But I was really disappointed.
Now I will be sure to visit next time I visit you!
Thanks.
Wonderful words! I like the photos… in the first image, how big are the skull blocks?
I like this. Makes me want to go see it.
Who is Chac Mool?
I want to see a pic of your shoes, and the snake bracelet.
The Chac Mool is a figure as in the labelled photo above who is all over Chichen Itza. He is a reclining guy whose flat abdomen was used as a platform to carve sacrificial victims up.
INAPAM is an acronym for the senior citizens’ services, part of the federal government. If you are over 60 and have local ID, you can get this great card with your picture AND your fingerprint. Discounts in many stores and on many services, including domestic air flights. Half off on long-distance and city busses and discounts in restaurants and pharmacies.
hi beryl: very nice photos and commentary. I haven’t been there since we were there mit you in 1991 or thereabouts. the spic and span look of the site may bother me, but it does save the ruins with so many more visitors now. –keith