The market is endlessly fascinating. Household goods, food, small animals, clothes, musicians and small bands, jewelry, potions, saddles, spices, it’s all there. The market is not only a place where goods are sold, but a place where deals are made. There are fences and scam artists. There are people pawning the family jewelry. Maya women who have travelled in from the pueblos to sell small amounts of cilantro or mint from their kitchen gardens. And today a well-dressed, middle aged woman tried to sell us a bottle of skin cream she had in her purse. She acted as if it was illegal goods, very surreptitious.
We spent some time with three gentlemen who offered us some of their morcilla (blood sausage) and soft French bread as we sat and chatted. One was the brother of Cholo, a famous Mexican comedian. Then there was “Peter,” interested in practicing his excellent English, and best of all, Isaiah who wanted us to know that the town of Tikokob was full of homosexuals and transvestites. They were reading the paper and talking when we arrived. They obviously meet there every day. Who knows why?
Isaiah introduced me to a Spanish word I hadn’t known – handcuffs are called esposas! (wives) Men are caught by the police and brought to jail “esposado.” See? You always learn something at the market.
A guy had a one-month-old parrot for sale. He had bred it himself and kept it in a box. It was absolutely adorable, but he wouldn’t let me take a picture.
I found some poison for the leaf-cutter ants that have been devastating the garden. It’s in the form of pellets that they carry to their nests to consume. I feel sorry for them, but they stripped an entire pointsetta plant of all leaves and blossoms in one night plus made several large shrubs disappear. They’re amazing to watch as they carry huge hunks of vegetation, all in a line, scurrying purposefully home. Nocturnal beasts.
The photos were taken at different times.
- Chiles

- Isaiah






























The photos are Fantastic!
Hi Beryl. I love that market too and I go every Friday to buy enough flowers to fill the house for merely 150 Pesos. An upper class Yucatecan lady once told me that she was “horrified” that I went to that smelly, messy place.
Strange how cultural differences affect our perceptions. Most expatriates I know love going to the market now and then..
Rgds.
Mario
that last picture of the carcass peek-a-boo is, um, stunningly weird. i like it. others are less weird, more just great. keep taking and sending the pic from afar!
Great pictures Beryl… I also love the markets.
Joanna
fABULOUS PHOTOS–especially the peek a boo through the hanging meat. It would be a facinating story if you went to Tikokob to report on the state of the homosexuals and transvestites. Can’t wait!!!
I don’t want to gush, but I’m finding everything you’re sending me fascination.
I too love the mercado, in fact I was just there this am. I wish I went more often, maybe I should o with you, I don’t seem to make the exciting discoveries you do!!
Debi
Just one more of your special gifts….photography.
I love to walk there from our casa merida. I took my sister-in-law, penny (walter’s sister), she could not handle smell in the meat market & seafood market. She said to me I am a brave soul, not really, u got to open your mind & learn smell & taste another cultures. I love watching people. BG, your photo is great. I took lots photo too. We lived in frankfurt Germany 4 yr, from 1989 to 1992, similar market but much cleaner but merida is getting better every year.