We set out looking for the town of San Diego. There’s a marker for it on the highway, but no road to turn off on. We went another mile and turned into a road labeled Hacienda Buspol. The hacienda turned out to be yet another over-the-top restoration that is soon opening as guess what, a hotel. Very pretty. Orange. The caretaker had never heard of San Diego. We tried approaching San Diego from several angles, but it remains a mystery.
Then we went to see the hacienda of BG’s old friends, Arthur and Carol Pogue (RIPx2) in Telchac Pueblo. I was glad to see the place in good shape, as last year when I’d driven by, it was overgrown with vegetation and you couldn’t get down the driveway. A young man informed us that there were several people living there. His German Shepard tried to kill me.
If you remember Art and Carol, you know that Arthur was obsessed with neem trees. He got seeds and fledgling plants into the Yucatan any way he could and gave saplings away to all his friends. He extolled the health benefits of the tree, and also loved that it was a natural mosquito repellent.
Arthur and Carol both died some years ago and they left a hole in my heart. It was good to see the place somewhat taken care of, though it isn’t what it used to be. There were still hundreds of neem trees.
I have many happy memories of this place. I don’t know how many hours I spent there, sitting on the the second floor patio, looking out at the peaceful countryside.
About 16 years ago, a friend of mine who shall remain nameless, got married there. I was one of the two bridesmaids. The bride had a gorgeous dress she had had made, but during the final preparations, she realized she’d left it in Merida.
Our friend Evelyn Serrano (RIP) was there in a gorgeous huipile. I asked her to come upstairs, telling her it was an emergency, and as soon as she entered the room, we told her we needed her dress. Without question, she took it off, and put on the clothes the bride had been wearing, which were a bit small. Evelyn hid behind a car for the duration of the ceremony, which was lovely. The place was in full bloom and Arthur had seen to it that the grounds were perfectly manicured. Hats off to Evelyn!
Then we drove through Ixil, where they were recovering from their annual fiesta on April 30th. The bullring was still up, made of palm fronds and sticks.
The enormous Ixil church still has two of its six bells. There was a funeral going on inside and a woman was singing like an angel. A beautiful moment.
We drove past lots of healthy henequen fields. The one below is labelled strangely. My companion says it’s Japanese and I say it’s a few Japanese characters with scribble in between. Or perhaps the calligrapher had too much tequila. Any opinions?
Then we went up to the coast, to Telchac Pueblo, drove around and ate at our usual haunt, La Picuda. The fare isn’t great, but it’s your genuine, typical coastal village food. It was inexpensive and the people there are unusually nice.
The fish with garlic sauce was the standout.
A few merchants were on the pier selling things they’d made.
It was a beautiful day, with families playing on the pier and fishing boats bouncing in the choppy sea.